Threads of Tradition
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Past Editions
Threads of Tradition — June 2026
The Art of Kantha
Read Threads of Tradition — June 2026: The Art of Kantha (PDF)
Textile FAQ
What is Ajrakh?
Ajrakh is a resist and mordant block-printing tradition associated with Kutch in Gujarat and Sindh. Cloth is typically prepared, printed in stages with carved wooden blocks using resist pastes and mordants, then dyed, often with indigo and madder-type reds, and washed between steps. Because each stage is done by hand, small variations in registration and colour are a normal part of the craft rather than defects. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
How is Khadi different from mill-woven cotton?
Khadi is hand-spun and handwoven. Variation in hand-spun yarn can produce visible slubs and an irregular texture. Mill-woven cotton is generally made with machine-spun yarn on power looms, giving a more uniform surface. Neither method alone determines quality, softness or breathability: yarn, weave density, weight and finishing also matter. Compare those properties against the needs of the sewing pattern rather than assuming all Khadi is lightweight or all mill cloth is stiff. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
What fabric weight should I choose for a summer shirt?
For warm-weather shirts, roughly 80 to 130 GSM can be a useful starting range for lightweight cotton, but it is not a rule. Voile, mulmul, lightweight poplin and some Khadi can suit different shirt styles; their weave density and finish vary. Low weight alone does not guarantee breathability, and very light cloth may be sheer. Check opacity and hand feel: relaxed shapes suit softer drape, while collars and plackets may need more body or interfacing. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
What does GSM mean?
GSM stands for grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight. A higher number means more material per area, which usually, but not always, means a denser or thicker cloth. Weave, yarn twist and finishing also affect how a fabric feels, so two fabrics with the same GSM can handle quite differently. Use GSM as a comparison point alongside the listing description. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
How can I judge drape and transparency before buying?
Drape describes how a fabric falls and folds; transparency is how much light and colour show through. Both depend on fibre, yarn, weave density and finishing, not weight alone. Read listing notes and photos carefully, and if you are unsure, order a swatch or a small length where available. For lighter or open weaves, plan for a lining, underlayer or a darker colourway if opacity matters. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
Should I prewash, and how do I care for naturally dyed fabric?
Prewashing before cutting is generally wise for cotton and Khadi, as many natural-fibre fabrics shrink on first wash. For naturally dyed and block-printed cloth, common practice is a gentle cold hand wash or delicate cycle, mild pH-neutral detergent, washing separately at first since some excess dye may release, and drying in shade to limit fading. Avoid bleach and harsh stain removers. Natural dyes can soften and shift over time. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.
How do fabric width and yardage affect how much I need?
Pattern envelopes list required length for specific widths, commonly around 110 cm (44 inches) and 150 cm (58 to 60 inches). Handloom fabrics are often narrower or less standard, so check the listed width and use the matching row of your pattern chart. Add allowance for prewash shrinkage, pattern matching on prints, and directional designs. Narrower cloth almost always means buying more length. Properties vary by listing, so check each product page, and where a product carries its own care instructions, those instructions prevail.